Domatesli Patlican
Eggplant Stew with Tomatoes
2 eggplants, washed and peeled
2 tomatoes, diced
1 ½ cups diced tomato in a can
1 big onion, chopped
1 tsp tomato paste (optional)
1 green pepper, chopped
3 tbsp olive oil1 tsp salt
¼ tsp black pepper
1/2 tsp basil (optional)
½ cup hot water
Cut the eggplants in cubes and place into a bowl covered with water. Leave for 15-20 minutes. Then rinse and drain.In a pot, sauté onions with olive oil. Then stir in tomato paste (optional) and peppers. Saute them over medium heat and then stir in eggplants. Saute for 3-4 minutes. Finally add salt, hot water, basil and tomatoes. Do not stir, just leave tomatoes on top and cover the lid. Cook for 20-25 minutes over low heat till eggplants are tender.Sprinkle black pepper on top and stir.
Serve Eggplant Stew with Tomatoes warm or cool, with yogurt or cacik as you like.
Sut Corbasi
Milk Soup
1 cup vermicelli
2 cups water
3 cups milk
1 tbsp salt to taste
1 tbsp butter
1 tsp Good Fresh Paprika
Boil 2 cups of water in a pot and add vermicelli. Cook for 8-10 minutes over medium heat till vermicelli is soft. Then add salt and milk. When it boils, simmer for 6-8 minutes, stirring occasionally.For garnish, place the butter in a small frying pan and melt over low-medium heat. When spitting starts, stir in paprika and a pinch of salt. Then pour on the soup and serve warm.
Cooking Eggplant for Babaganoush
Cut slits on med sized eggplant.
Bake @ 400ºF for 1 hour.
Place eggplant in plastic bag to wilt for 20 min.
Peel off skin and use flesh.
Sunday, October 4, 2009
Friday, July 10, 2009
Gooseberry Jam
Ingredients
1.3kg (3 lb) fresh gooseberries
1.3kg (3 lb) caster sugar
75ml (3 fl oz) liquid pectin (Certo)
Preparation method
Remove blossom and stem ends from gooseberries. Force berries through food mill. Measure 4 tea cups of the berry mash into a large pot. Stir in the sugar. Bring to a full rolling boil over high heat, and boil hard for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Remove from heat, and stir in pectin at once. Skim off any foam with a large metal spoon.
Sterilize jars and lids in boiling water for at least 10 minutes. Take turns with skimming foam, and stirring the berry mixture for 5 minutes to let it cool slightly. Ladle into hot sterile jars, leaving .5cm (1/4 in) headspace.
1.3kg (3 lb) fresh gooseberries
1.3kg (3 lb) caster sugar
75ml (3 fl oz) liquid pectin (Certo)
Preparation method
Remove blossom and stem ends from gooseberries. Force berries through food mill. Measure 4 tea cups of the berry mash into a large pot. Stir in the sugar. Bring to a full rolling boil over high heat, and boil hard for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Remove from heat, and stir in pectin at once. Skim off any foam with a large metal spoon.
Sterilize jars and lids in boiling water for at least 10 minutes. Take turns with skimming foam, and stirring the berry mixture for 5 minutes to let it cool slightly. Ladle into hot sterile jars, leaving .5cm (1/4 in) headspace.
Red Currant Jelly
Ingredients:
4 lbs red currants
6 ½ cups granulated sugar
1 cup water
4 oz liquid pectin
note: To get transparent jelly, crush the currants gently. Press too hard and the jelly will taste good, but have a cloudy appearance.
Preparation:
In a large stockpot, crush currants, add 1 cup of water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Strain the liquid through cheesecloth and measure out 5 cups of the currant juice.
Bring the strained juice to a boil, stir in the liquid, boil for an additional 30 seconds, and then remove from heat. Skim foam from top and ladle into 5 sterilized ½-pint jars, leaving ½-inch of headspace. Wipe rims of jars with a clean cloth, top with sterile ring and lids, and process in simmering water for 10 minutes.
Makes 5 1/2-pint jars of jelly.
4 lbs red currants
6 ½ cups granulated sugar
1 cup water
4 oz liquid pectin
note: To get transparent jelly, crush the currants gently. Press too hard and the jelly will taste good, but have a cloudy appearance.
Preparation:
In a large stockpot, crush currants, add 1 cup of water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Strain the liquid through cheesecloth and measure out 5 cups of the currant juice.
Bring the strained juice to a boil, stir in the liquid, boil for an additional 30 seconds, and then remove from heat. Skim foam from top and ladle into 5 sterilized ½-pint jars, leaving ½-inch of headspace. Wipe rims of jars with a clean cloth, top with sterile ring and lids, and process in simmering water for 10 minutes.
Makes 5 1/2-pint jars of jelly.
Quince Jelly
Ingredients:
7 1/2 cups sugar
3 fluid ounces liquid pectin
4 1/2 cups water
3 pounds quinces, cored and chopped, peels
on
1/4 cup lemon juice
Directions:
1.
Sterilize 8 (1/2 pint) jars in boiling water for at least 5 minutes, and have new lids ready.
2.
Place the quinces in a large pot, and pour in water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low, and simmer, covered, for 15 minutes. Strain off 4 cups of the juice. Mix juice with sugar and lemon juice in a heavy pot, and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring constantly. Stir in pectin, and return to a boil. Boil for 1 full minute, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and skim off foam. Ladle into hot sterile jars, and process for 10 minutes in a hot water bath to seal. Refrigerate jelly after opening.
7 1/2 cups sugar
3 fluid ounces liquid pectin
4 1/2 cups water
3 pounds quinces, cored and chopped, peels
on
1/4 cup lemon juice
Directions:
1.
Sterilize 8 (1/2 pint) jars in boiling water for at least 5 minutes, and have new lids ready.
2.
Place the quinces in a large pot, and pour in water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low, and simmer, covered, for 15 minutes. Strain off 4 cups of the juice. Mix juice with sugar and lemon juice in a heavy pot, and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring constantly. Stir in pectin, and return to a boil. Boil for 1 full minute, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and skim off foam. Ladle into hot sterile jars, and process for 10 minutes in a hot water bath to seal. Refrigerate jelly after opening.
Sunday, June 14, 2009
Basic Pancakes
Ingredients:
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
3 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon white sugar
1 1/4 cups milk
1 egg
3 tablespoons butter, melted
DIRECTIONS
In a large bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, salt and sugar. Make a well in the center and pour in the milk, egg and melted butter; mix until smooth.
Heat a lightly oiled griddle or frying pan over medium high heat. Pour or scoop the batter onto the griddle, using approximately 1/4 cup for each pancake. Brown on both sides and serve hot.
PS: I add dried blueberries instead of fresh or frozen. They dont bleed or get squishy. The kids seem to like them a lot better and can get a few in each bite.
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
3 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon white sugar
1 1/4 cups milk
1 egg
3 tablespoons butter, melted
DIRECTIONS
In a large bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, salt and sugar. Make a well in the center and pour in the milk, egg and melted butter; mix until smooth.
Heat a lightly oiled griddle or frying pan over medium high heat. Pour or scoop the batter onto the griddle, using approximately 1/4 cup for each pancake. Brown on both sides and serve hot.
PS: I add dried blueberries instead of fresh or frozen. They dont bleed or get squishy. The kids seem to like them a lot better and can get a few in each bite.
Friday, May 29, 2009
Sugared Flowers
Here is a really sweet way to finish truffles, cakes, cookies or cupcake. Find fresh edible violets, pansies, rose petals and mint or lemon balm leaves. Mix marangue power, and using a small brush, cover flower completely with a thin even coat. Dip in caster sugar and set aside on a plate to dry for 15 minutes.
Sunday, May 10, 2009
Oil Cloth
I have a house that is almost 100 yrs old. I also have the origional wood floors that are in great shape since they had been covered with carpeting or old OLD flooring. I also have 2 boys ages 5 & 2, so I would like the floors to be a bit protected at times. Oil cloth is relly $$$$ so being the Domestic Rebel, I should see if I could make some. I got this off ebay, and I will give it a go sometime after school is not so hectic.
What is REAL OILCLOTH - and what isn't?
Many of us remember walking into Grandma's kitchen while she was canning, and smelling an unmistakeable smell that came from the oilcloth she had tacked to her kitchen table to protect it. To me, it always smelled like heat. I associated it with humid August afternoons and steam from the canner. Oilcloth could be a utilitarian solid color, or it could be printed in stripes or plaids or florals - really a lovely variety of prints. It was durable, though with time it did get brittle. It was relatively waterproof and thus made an ideal picnic cloth or tablecloth for use in the kitchen. It could be used to make seats for lawn furniture. It was relatively inexpensive, frequently sold by the foot at the local hardware or five and dime.So what was that oilcloth, and where can we get it today?Oilcloth was woven natural fiber cloth, usually cotton duck/canvas or linen, that had been treated with a coating based on linseed oil. The fabric could be dyed or printed before treatment, or sometimes the color and design were added in the treatment process. It was a smelly process, but linseed is a natural byproduct of flax processing, not petroleum based, and thus it was not toxic in the way that modern plastics processing can be. Oilcloth also biodegraded in a landfill when its usefulness was over.Unfortunately, oilcloth went out of style by the late 1950s, and a new and "improved" version of waterproof table covering came along: The vinyl-covered flannelbacked tablecloth. And now, within the past few years, a PVC-coated woven cotton fabric is being marked as "real oilcloth," though I personally would not call it such, as it is made from polyvinyl chloride. True, it is on the old-fashioned cotton duck fabric, but PVC does not break down in a landfill like linseed products do. It has a slick plasticky feel to the touch rather than the slightly sticky oily feel of true oilcloth (or at least of used oilcloth). It is said to be more durable and long lasting than real oilcloth, but I think the jury is still out on that. Let's see how it holds up after 20 years.On the plus side, much of the modern "oilcloth" available is printed using some of the vintage designs, in many cases using the actual plates and rollers that were used for the vintage oilcloth, so that we have easily found reproductions of the colorful vintage designs - something people are looking for as they redecorate in vintage style. Most of this modern oilcloth is made in Mexico in 48" widths and has wonderfully bright pigments and vibrant designs that seem ready to leap off the fabric. They are lovely in their own right. But in my opinion - and I'm the one writing this review, so I get to say this - they should not be called "real oilcloth."I did find a source for real, honest-to-goodness oilcloth by the yard, but it's utilitarian, brown or very dark green, and is marketed to war reenactors. It is available from Hamilton Dry Goods (check their eBay store or their website). If you are looking for the pretty stuff that would look nice on your kitchen table, then I don't have an answer for you; sadly. I am still looking for a real source for real, non-PVC-but-still-beautiful oilcloth.But wait! All is not lost. You can always make your own oilcloth. It's quite possible, you know, and kind of a fun experiment. Start with a piece of heavyweight cotton canvas. Pick one that already has a print that you enjoy, or you can tie-dye it with fabric dyes, or even stamp it with colored oil paints. Now you need to stretch it, just like you would an artist's canvas. You want it smooth and you want it to hold still. So staple it to a square wooden frame. Now you need to take linseed oil and a paintbrush. You are going to paint the cloth in long strokes, all over the "good" side. Set it aside. It will take a couple of days to dry. Give it a few more coats. If you don't already have a design on it, pause between coats and add some color using oil paints. Add more coats of linseed. After you have a nice thick coating built up and it is thoroughly dry, remove your oilcloth from the frame and trim the unpainted edges, or better yet, turn them under and glue them to make a smooth edge and use your new oilcloth as a floor cloth.You can also make an item out of canvas and then after the fact dip it in linseed oil and allow it to dry, repeating the process until the article is thoroughly coated. I learned this from the folk on eBay's Dolls Discussion Board. Many vintage doll shoes are made of oilcloth. If you can build the shoe from canvas or duck, you can then coat it and end up with a pretty authentic oilcloth doll shoe.The short version of all this is: The modern fabrics being marketed as "real oilcloth" are no such thing. They are beautiful in their own right, but they should be called something else.
And I found this one too:
But wait! All is not lost. You can always make your own oilcloth. It's quite possible, you know, and kind of a fun experiment. Start with a piece of heavyweight cotton canvas. Pick one that already has a print that you enjoy, or you can tie-dye it with fabric dyes, or even stamp it with colored oil paints. Now you need to stretch it, just like you would an artist's canvas. You want it smooth and you want it to hold still. So staple it to a square wooden frame. Now you need to take linseed oil and a paintbrush. You are going to paint the cloth in long strokes, all over the "good" side. Set it aside. It will take a couple of days to dry. Give it a few more coats. If you don't already have a design on it, pause between coats and add some color using oil paints. Add more coats of linseed. After you have a nice thick coating built up and it is thoroughly dry, remove your oilcloth from the frame and trim the unpainted edges, or better yet, turn them under and glue them to make a smooth edge and use your new oilcloth as a floor cloth.You can also make an item out of canvas and then after the fact dip it in linseed oil and allow it to dry, repeating the process until the article is thoroughly coated. I learned this from the folk on eBay's Dolls Discussion Board. Many vintage doll shoes are made of oilcloth. If you can build the shoe from canvas or duck, you can then coat it and end up with a pretty authentic oilcloth doll shoe.
What is REAL OILCLOTH - and what isn't?
Many of us remember walking into Grandma's kitchen while she was canning, and smelling an unmistakeable smell that came from the oilcloth she had tacked to her kitchen table to protect it. To me, it always smelled like heat. I associated it with humid August afternoons and steam from the canner. Oilcloth could be a utilitarian solid color, or it could be printed in stripes or plaids or florals - really a lovely variety of prints. It was durable, though with time it did get brittle. It was relatively waterproof and thus made an ideal picnic cloth or tablecloth for use in the kitchen. It could be used to make seats for lawn furniture. It was relatively inexpensive, frequently sold by the foot at the local hardware or five and dime.So what was that oilcloth, and where can we get it today?Oilcloth was woven natural fiber cloth, usually cotton duck/canvas or linen, that had been treated with a coating based on linseed oil. The fabric could be dyed or printed before treatment, or sometimes the color and design were added in the treatment process. It was a smelly process, but linseed is a natural byproduct of flax processing, not petroleum based, and thus it was not toxic in the way that modern plastics processing can be. Oilcloth also biodegraded in a landfill when its usefulness was over.Unfortunately, oilcloth went out of style by the late 1950s, and a new and "improved" version of waterproof table covering came along: The vinyl-covered flannelbacked tablecloth. And now, within the past few years, a PVC-coated woven cotton fabric is being marked as "real oilcloth," though I personally would not call it such, as it is made from polyvinyl chloride. True, it is on the old-fashioned cotton duck fabric, but PVC does not break down in a landfill like linseed products do. It has a slick plasticky feel to the touch rather than the slightly sticky oily feel of true oilcloth (or at least of used oilcloth). It is said to be more durable and long lasting than real oilcloth, but I think the jury is still out on that. Let's see how it holds up after 20 years.On the plus side, much of the modern "oilcloth" available is printed using some of the vintage designs, in many cases using the actual plates and rollers that were used for the vintage oilcloth, so that we have easily found reproductions of the colorful vintage designs - something people are looking for as they redecorate in vintage style. Most of this modern oilcloth is made in Mexico in 48" widths and has wonderfully bright pigments and vibrant designs that seem ready to leap off the fabric. They are lovely in their own right. But in my opinion - and I'm the one writing this review, so I get to say this - they should not be called "real oilcloth."I did find a source for real, honest-to-goodness oilcloth by the yard, but it's utilitarian, brown or very dark green, and is marketed to war reenactors. It is available from Hamilton Dry Goods (check their eBay store or their website). If you are looking for the pretty stuff that would look nice on your kitchen table, then I don't have an answer for you; sadly. I am still looking for a real source for real, non-PVC-but-still-beautiful oilcloth.But wait! All is not lost. You can always make your own oilcloth. It's quite possible, you know, and kind of a fun experiment. Start with a piece of heavyweight cotton canvas. Pick one that already has a print that you enjoy, or you can tie-dye it with fabric dyes, or even stamp it with colored oil paints. Now you need to stretch it, just like you would an artist's canvas. You want it smooth and you want it to hold still. So staple it to a square wooden frame. Now you need to take linseed oil and a paintbrush. You are going to paint the cloth in long strokes, all over the "good" side. Set it aside. It will take a couple of days to dry. Give it a few more coats. If you don't already have a design on it, pause between coats and add some color using oil paints. Add more coats of linseed. After you have a nice thick coating built up and it is thoroughly dry, remove your oilcloth from the frame and trim the unpainted edges, or better yet, turn them under and glue them to make a smooth edge and use your new oilcloth as a floor cloth.You can also make an item out of canvas and then after the fact dip it in linseed oil and allow it to dry, repeating the process until the article is thoroughly coated. I learned this from the folk on eBay's Dolls Discussion Board. Many vintage doll shoes are made of oilcloth. If you can build the shoe from canvas or duck, you can then coat it and end up with a pretty authentic oilcloth doll shoe.The short version of all this is: The modern fabrics being marketed as "real oilcloth" are no such thing. They are beautiful in their own right, but they should be called something else.
And I found this one too:
But wait! All is not lost. You can always make your own oilcloth. It's quite possible, you know, and kind of a fun experiment. Start with a piece of heavyweight cotton canvas. Pick one that already has a print that you enjoy, or you can tie-dye it with fabric dyes, or even stamp it with colored oil paints. Now you need to stretch it, just like you would an artist's canvas. You want it smooth and you want it to hold still. So staple it to a square wooden frame. Now you need to take linseed oil and a paintbrush. You are going to paint the cloth in long strokes, all over the "good" side. Set it aside. It will take a couple of days to dry. Give it a few more coats. If you don't already have a design on it, pause between coats and add some color using oil paints. Add more coats of linseed. After you have a nice thick coating built up and it is thoroughly dry, remove your oilcloth from the frame and trim the unpainted edges, or better yet, turn them under and glue them to make a smooth edge and use your new oilcloth as a floor cloth.You can also make an item out of canvas and then after the fact dip it in linseed oil and allow it to dry, repeating the process until the article is thoroughly coated. I learned this from the folk on eBay's Dolls Discussion Board. Many vintage doll shoes are made of oilcloth. If you can build the shoe from canvas or duck, you can then coat it and end up with a pretty authentic oilcloth doll shoe.
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